July 4:  Aviles to Cudillero  

A day of small hamlets was the agenda of the day.  According to any map or book the chances of seeing any large metropolis was out, so once again with backpacks stocked, we set out for the day's venture. 

Aviles and Cudillero are both on the sea, but keeping with true Camino way's the path headed inland and up the hillsides far away from any glimpse of the water crashing against the shore.  Matter of fact within minutes of leaving the hotel we forgot that we were anywhere close to the ocean as we started the steep climb out of town and ventured out over farmlands and through three house villages arriving sometimes on a narrow trail carved into the ridge that "dumped" into someone's backyard.  The landscape was once again spectacular.  The villages were quaint dating back many hundred of years.  Some of the homes have been modernized but most were their original exterior. 

The way spent most of the time on back country roads or lanes, but occasionally entered into forests thick with fern and eucalyptus.  The day had started with a horrendous thunder and lightning storm, which had forced us to momentarily seek shelter in a small cafe.  Remember, we are walking with metal poles -- our own junior lightning rods and none of us wanted to test the theory that lightning only strikes in the same place once.  Plus we were moving, so the research would have been tainted!  It left behind a wonderful smell of moist earth and damp grass as we shuffled through the wet underbrush.  It is hard to be upset about a little damp legs when the environment is so breathtaking.  

As the afternoon slowly passed the search for a place to stop for lunch became a game.  There were no towns but we figured occasionally the locals must want to go out for a meal or drink.  Questioning several residents in hamlet after hamlet as they worked their fields (with hand sickle) a small restaurant was finally described to be just around the corner.  Note here:  The Spanish corner is a lot longer and farther away than the American one, or at least seems so when hot and tired!)  Several more "just around the corners" and there hidden in the backyard between two homes was what looked like another home with the exception of having over twenty cars and trucks parked in front of it.  We figured this guy really likes cars and trucks or we have found the missing restaurant.  It was the place!!!  A Menu de Dia and we were set to walk again.

The end of the day brought us down the mountainside into a very quaint and lovely fishing village of Cuidillero.  It is literally built into the ridge of the mountain at the water's edge with the one home balancing on top of the one below.  Our hotel was at the very bottom of course and departure the next day was to start with a walk back up and out of the valley.  But at least for tonight it was a delightful setting for a nice meal and a good night's sleep.

Exiting Aviles

Angela in the Forest


Cudillero with its nets!